Monday, April 5, 2010

Fumotoya, Marunouchi (麓屋)

Originally I was thinking of just going for a walk today (it's a health thing) but in the end decided to squeeze a quick lunch at a relatively faraway destination (MY Plaza, in south Marunouchi) into the middle of 40 minutes of walking. Fumotoya seems to have a learning disability, but its soba-based food is interesting at least.

A few weeks ago I discoursed intolerably on taxonomizing soba restaurants. This is certainly in the 'new and stylish' quadrant, featuring soft lights, angular dark wood, waiters in bistro-style ties, vests and long aprons, and a maitre d' in a suit. Soba! C'mon, people! Plus delicate glass dividers, a back-lit bar, and other features that could be described as classy. Depending on how you see these things.

The B Lunch (Y1000) looked too big to be true outside, but was in fact exactly as advertised. In addition to a good-size strainer of soba (which were artfully combed so that the noodles were aligned and folded on each other, but uninspired. The tsuyu was quite fishy, which was a little interesting. The wasabi was horseradish.), the tray included a salad of mizuna topped with ranch-y dressing and unohana, a small bowl with a slice of smoked salmon on raw onion slices, sheathed in an unidentifiable and intolerable dressing, a bowl of rice (!) and a 'main dish', which was three pieces of bacon-wrapped meatloaf, some boiled carrots, and a scoop of mashed potatoes. Why this reminded me of dislexia, I can't say. No offense intended.

Variety is good, but quality is better. I'd have to say I liked the variety and value, but thought the quality expressed the ambitions of the place - with 3 outlets currently, I'd say they're gearing up to open a larger chain, and have already figured out how to make the acceptable but formulaic food. On the other hand, the pictures on the web site are quite good (in a sort of 'light French/Italian courses that come with soba at the end' sort of way), so maybe it's better for dinner.


1 comment:

  1. The lunch menu is very strange. Soba and meatloaf - one for Japanese and another for westerner. The combination seems like something that shows up in kid's plates.